I thought the highlight of Amritsar would be the floating temple covered in 750 kg of gold. But it turns out that the real highlight of Amritsar was spending my 24 hours around the Golden Temple, in the Sri Harmandir Sahib Gurdwara, the massive temple complex which houses Sikhism's holiest shrine. Originally founded in 1577 by the fourth Sikh Guru, Ram Das, the central shrine houses the Sikh holy book, the Guru Granth Sahib, which is read continuously 24 hours a day, projected over the loudspeaker, so that the sound of chanting fills the compound. The compound has several guest houses where pilgrims (and wandering foreigners) can stay for free. But when you think of a guest house, you tend t
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