My bus pulled in to Delphi well after dark, and I stopped in at the one taverna that was open on the one street in the village. The one man working was hanging Christmas baubles from the ceiling, and he brought me bowls of cheese and eggplant spread and fresh bread. No one else was in the restaurant. The cobbled streets of Delphi were also empty. It was chilly and quiet, but the energy of the streets felt tangible. The next day I explored the ruins. It’s not known exactly whe