Dunoon was built as a resort town, a place where wealthy Glasgow merchants could get away for summers by the seaside. It’s grande old houses and seafront promenade recall days gone by when well-to-do families would eat ice cream on the pier. But the real highlight of this weekend’s getaway was not Dunoon itself, but the wilds of the Cowal Peninsula which lay beyond. Cowal is officially part of the council of Argyll and Bute, although it’s both vast and distinct enough to feel