
- Jun 13, 2019
The Government Museum Udaipur
Udaipur was slow love. I arrived off a deluxe 12-hour sleeper bus from Bikaner, to a hot and cramped town full of rickshaw drivers...

- Jun 10, 2019
Of Monsoons and Mornings
The feeling of Mumbai can totally shift from morning to evening. My very first memory of the city was when I arrived at three in the...

- May 30, 2019
On Chaos and Creation
When I first came to India I was afraid to cross the street. I would wait on the side of the road for a break in the cars that never...

- May 12, 2019
The Cult of the Rat
A stuffy 45-minute bus ride south of the Rajasthani desert town of Bikaner lies the Karni Mata Temple, more colloquially known as the...

- May 7, 2019
From Ceylon to Darjeeling
High Tea at the Elgin in Darjeeling, West Bengal Celestial Seasonings, the Colorado-based tea company, has a flavour (my very favourite...

- Apr 29, 2019
A Very Alibaug Passover
Some 120 km (but five hours by bus) South of Mumbai, down the palm-fringed Konkan Coast, lies the town of Alibaug. Really the collective...

- Apr 14, 2019
Desert Mirages
I had planned to spend four nights in Jaisalmer - two days to explore, a day for Shabbat, and one more day at the famous Jaisalmer Desert...

- Mar 28, 2019
The Fringes of Antiquity
Nestled in the rocky hills of the Aravali Mountain Range, tucked between red cliffs lined with scrubby bushes, is the pilgrimage town of...

- Mar 22, 2019
Of Monuments and Marketstalls
I woke up at 5:00 in the morning to go and see the Taj Mahal. It was worth it. Wrapped in every piece of clothing that I had with me, I...

- Feb 3, 2019
Oceans Away
Last Friday night I stood in a small cluster around a table with 28 Jewish young adults from Mumbai. With our arms around each other we...