The first thing the rickshaw driver said to me when I got off the bus in Manali was, "Where do you want to go? Beit Chabad?" I had just been on an 11-hour overnight bus from Chandigarh, and was exhausted from 53 hours without a real bed to sleep in, so I agreed and we headed up the winding, traffic-packed lanes to a small bridge crossing a river, from where he told me to walk straight until I saw it. But before I could find the Chabad House, I had to get past endless shops with full Hebrew signs pasted on their windows, baring names like 'Jerusalem of Gold' and 'Kol Tuv Achi'. Seemingly every single shop, restaurant, and guesthouse in Old Manali was catering to a strictly Israeli crowd. With
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